‘Vanity Fair’ Get Us In The ’20s Mood
Posted on 31-01-2012
 

Rooney Mara in Ralph Lauren, Mia Wasikowska in Ralph Lauren, Jennifer Lawrence in custom Donna Karan and Jessica Chastain in Giorgio Armani

Elizabeth Olsen in Salvatore Ferragamo, Adepero Oduye in Carolina Herrera and Shailene Woodley in Ralph Lauren

Paula Patton in L’Wren Scott, Felicity Jones in Burberry, Lily Collins in Calvin Klein dress and Annabelle New York jacket and Brit Marling in Tommy Hilfiger

Vanity Fair just released its “Hollywood Issue” featuring 11 starlets, including Rooney Mara, Mia Wasikowska and Jennifer Lawrence, posing on an Art Deco set wearing pastel satin gowns. Mario Testino  shot the ladies in what must have been one hell of a scheduling feat. The Art Deco set was designed to evoke the all-white, Jazz Age interiors of English decorator Syrie Maugham, whose clients included Bunny Mellon, Elsa Schiaparelli, and the Duchess of Windsor; V.F.’s fashion and style director, Jessica Diehl, put the 11 cover starlets in pastel satin dresses and frothy feathers to lend a 20s and 30s boudoir feel. In addition to Mara and Chastain (both Academy Awards Nominees) everyone else on the cover has had a gigantic year at the movies. Paula Patton was in the new Mission Impossible movie, Adepero Oduye had great success in Pariah and everyone still loves Shailene Woodley in The Descendants. The list goes on.

(photos:vanity fair)

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Chanel Sky Line Nail Polish
Posted on 31-01-2012
 

When it comes to nail polish, if Chanel says “Jump,” we say, “How high?” Thus, we were instantly smitten when we received this preview image of the nail polish that debuted at the CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE SPRING 2012 show last week in Paris. Appropriately titled Sky Line, the pretty sky blue nail polish has a gentle shimmer that will fit in perfectly with a summer wardrobe. Even better, the polish is part of an entire collection, titled Bleu Illusion, which will include navy blue eye liner, a rosy pink powder blush, eyeshadow in different blue hues, a creamy lip color, and more. What can we say? Bring on summer! The Bleu Illusion is set to arrive at Chanel counters, as well as online at Chanel.com, in July.

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The prettiest palazzo of Coppola
Posted on 30-01-2012
 

With the help of legendary French interior designer Jacques Grange,Francis Ford Coppola has transformed a 19th-century palazzo in his family’s Italian hometown into a grand hotel with the romance and sophistication of the Belle Époque

There is something about waking up in Sofia Coppola’s bedroom at the Palazzo Margherita that makes one feel rather like a princess. The walls and high ceilings are painted with golden trompe l’oeil trellising and faux marble, tall doors with long white curtains open onto a terrace and a walled garden below, and the bed is enormous. It is even lovelier once the chambermaids have been through, leaving behind a haze of citrusy Acqua di Parma.

Located in the lively working town of Bernalda, in Southern Italy, the palazzo is the fifth and most luxurious in a collection of hotels owned by Francis Ford Coppola. It represents a homecoming, of sorts, for the multifaceted filmmaker, whose grandfather immigrated to America from there in 1904.

His first order of business was to enlist the expertise of feted Parisian interior designer Jacques Grange. Next, he asked members of his close-knit family if they would like to contribute to the design of their bedrooms. The result is a combination of Belle Époque grand hotel and comforting family home.

The palazzo’s entrance and central courtyard

AFTERNOON IN ITALY | Francis Ford Coppola’s suite at the Palazzo Margherita, which he designed with Jacques Grange, including an elaborately painted Moorish ceiling and Grange’s signature zigzag tiled floor

FEMININE BEAUTY | A corner of the room designed by Sofia Coppola with Grange and inspired by the Villa Favorita near Palermo, Italy
All of the bedrooms have hand-painted paneling on the walls and ceilings.
STRAIGHTENING UP | A chambermaid carries fresh linens to an upstairs bedroom. The chandelier is from Murano, and walls and columns are faux marble
CANDY STRIPES | The low furniture highlights the scale of the rooms.
The Sofia room, with a trompe l’oeil trellis that makes sleeping in the bed feel like lying under an arbor
GARDEN PARTY | A typical lunch: fresh pasta, salads, delicious flash-fried peppers and local wine
The Family Bar at breakfast, with Le Manach fabric-lined walls and café table.
For Coppola the Italian palazzo is about family, eating well and being together. By his own admission, the high point came with Sofia’s wedding this past summer to Thomas Mars, frontman for the French band Phoenix. “It was such a great setting,” Sofia says. “Our friends all gathered in the garden, and we had a small ceremony at the end of a trellis walk with rosé from my father-in-law’s winery, Chateau Thuerry, and prosecco at the bar after.” The food was prepared by Filomena in the kitchen on one side of the courtyard and by Frantoio, the restaurant next door, which still has a door on the other side.

The palazzo is also in striking contrast to the also beautiful, but very modern beach house at his Turtle inn Hotel in Belize. But this interior is so fresh, so fantastically indulgent, I immediately fell in love. Here is to hoping there are a couple of nights at Palazzo Margherita in my future.
(photographed by James Merrell for WSJ)

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Toile de Jouy
Posted on 29-01-2012
 

While i was watching Midnight in Paris, one of my favorite scenes from the movie took place on a toile-covered bed in Paris’ Le Bristol hotel. Toile de Jouy is the hotel’s signature pattern, with each room decorated in the traditional fabric +  beautiful 18th century-inspired furnishings.

I so loved digging into toile de jouy  {my bedroom it’s all covered} and i learned that marks the 252th anniversary of the founding of Oberkampf factory at Jouy-en-Josas in 1760, – we’ll begin with a little look at a well-known pattern – Toile de Jouy.

I’m actually completely blown away by the way that designers have made this historical 242 year-old pattern  feel completely fresh by pairing it with florals or by using it in an unexpected hue.

above: Les Traveaux de la Manufacture (The Activities of the Factory), 1783–84, designed by Jean-Baptiste Huet – 14 different scenes in this fabric depict the copperplate printing process via the Metropolitan Museum of Art]

[above: 18th century French cotton dress via the Metropolitan Museum of Art]

Cotton Banned in France
Before we can get into the nitty, gritty of the pattern, we really need to start with the fabric. When cotton was first imported from India to France in the 16th and 17th century, the light, colorful, and easily washable fabric was a wild success. It was used for everything from clothing to wall coverings, curtains and bedclothes. It was so much in demand, that the French government became concerned about the financial impact that this competition would have on French manufactures of silk, wool and cloth. So in 1686, all cotton was banned in France – production, importation and use. Even with the threat of arrest, the fashion continued – clandestinely. Finally in 1759, when the ban proved impossible to enforce, it was lifted and French factories sprung up to satisfy the demand for printed cotton.

[above: Oberkampf family by Louis Léopold Boilly, 1803]

Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf
- founder of the printed cotton manufacture in
Jouy-en-Josas
German-born Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf moved to Paris at the age of 20 in 1758. Both his father and grand-father had been in the cloth dyeing business and as a child, Christophe-Philippe accompanied his father on dyeing jobs. In Paris, Christophe-Philippe was rose quickly through the ranks. In 1759, after just a single year working in Paris, he formed a partnership with his former employer, who had advance warning that the cotton ban was about to be lifted and recognized the importance of Christophe-Philippe’s expertise – the two men decided to manufacture printed cotton.

[above: The factory at Jouy, 1807, by J.-B. Huet via the Le musée de la Toile de Jouy (the cloth is bleached by the sun in the meadow - the cloth was spread pattern-side down and sprinkled with water six to eight times a day for six days.)]

The factory in Jouy-en-Josas
Attracted by the clean water of the Bièvre river, the pair set up their factory in town of Jouy-en-Josas. In the early days of the business, Christophe-Philippe worked alone with his brother and the only item of furniture the pair possessed was the printing press – which he slept on at night. The demand for printed cotton was feverish and the company grew quickly. By 1805, the factory employed 1,322 workers. In 1770, after satisfying the 10 years residency requirements, Christophe-Philippe became a French citizen. In 1790, he became the first mayor of Jouy-en-Josas.

Les monuments d’Égypte designed by Jean-Baptiste Huet and inspired by eight engravings after drawings by the painter Louis-François Cassas via the Metropolitan Museum of Art]Copperplate Technology = Toile de Jouy!
The early printed cotton was produced using woodblocks. In 1770 Oberkampf began using copperplate printing at Jouy – the technique had been used abroad in England and Ireland for a number of years, but Oberkampf was the first cotton manufacturer to bring copperplate printing technology into France. Because the lines on the engraved copperplates are finer than those on wood blocks, one was able to introduce the effects of light and shade. The copperplates also allowed for a larger repeating pattern. This opened up the possibility for designs – no longer limited to florals or geometric designs – Oberkampf commissioned the best artists to design pastoral scenes with humans figures.  This new style allowed for the fabric to depict major events of the time period such as the first balloon flight (above) or the fascination with Egypt (above)

Midnight in Paris.

Fact to Know

  • In total, more than 30, 000 designs were created at the Jouy manufacture, many of them the work of renowned 18th-century artists such as Fragonard and Boucher.
  • Rue Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissement of Paris is named for Christophe-Philippe.
  • While the phrase toile de jouy literally translates as cloth from jouy, it has come to refer to the single-color print of a pastoral scene (usually) on a white ground

Books to Read

  • Toile de Jouy – This is my favorite of the two books listed here. Both had similar information – I just responded more to this organization.
  • Printed French Fabrics – Toiles de Jouy
  • The Age of Comfort – One of my all-time favorite books – the ins and outs of the fashion of comfort in 18th century France – it has a chapter on the advent of cotton in France.

(simply smitten,design&sponge,book toiles de jouy)

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TEA AND VALENTINO
Posted on 28-01-2012
 

This week’s VALENTINO COUTURE COLLECTION was one of the prettiest collection’s of dresses I’ve seen-
So very pretty.

William Paxton
When I read Hamish Bowles prose on the collection: Four-leaf clovers or posies of violets were printed over airy organza and shadowed with layers of tulle and lace, like Belle Époque tea gowns- my thoughts immediately went to the William Paxton’s painting Tea Leaves.
the Freshness,  delicate Embroidery,  elegant slippers, ruffled high collars of  VALENTINO COUTURE

& a favorite girlhood movie My Fair Lady- a favorite period the Belle Epoque-& darling Eliza Dolittle dresses were designed by Cecil Beaton.
Eliza by Beaton
& the women captured by the brush of Jacques Emile Blanche-& the pages of Fantasio & the Gazette du Bon Ton.
Or the photographs of Baron de Meyer de Meyer photographed many notables of the day and his most beautiful subject- his wife- Olga, Maria Beatrice Olga Alberta Caracciolo.
photo by Maria Robledo Darcey’- Valentino- portrait of Comte Beaumont by Baron de Meyer
The Valentino designers cite Belgian painter Paul Delvaux, the portraits of Marie Antoinette, along with stills from the film Marie Antoinette starring Norma Shearer & the photographs of Deborah Turbeville.
I’ll take Tea.
(photos:Molly SJ Lowe,llitle augury,style.com)


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VALENTINO SPRING 2012 HAUTE COUTURE
Posted on 25-01-2012
 

Valentino- beautiful delicate rose print girlie and fragile with very subtle detailing the fragility in many ways of Mia Farrow from the 60’s.It is an adorable  endless innocence..

(photos:style.com)

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Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Couture 2012
Posted on 25-01-2012
 

Jean Paul Gaultier, for whom borderline bad taste is a stock in trade, created a collection in the image of the late Amy Winehouse.  By any standards this was an exceptional Gaultier couture show, with its impeccably cut and very Parisian coats and suits that rarely went “back to black.” Instead, accents of orange or full-on yellow, green and turquoise would trace a slim dress that might be slipping off the shoulder or opening saucily at the back to give a glimpse of a bra.  “It is very joyous,” Mr. Gaultier said backstage. ‘’To me the scandal is that no fashion magazine did an Amy Winehouse cover. She was so exceptional in her style; how she held her body; the way she dressed, mixing pieces from different decades.”

(photos:style.com)

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Paris Haute Couture: Elie Saab spring/summer 2012
Posted on 25-01-2012
 

Elie Saab serves up a sparkling collection of pretty pastel gowns perfect for the red carpet.  Elie Saab’s haute couture show, presented in the Grand Palais to an audience of Bollywood stars (Sonam Kapoor, gorgeous in kohl-lined eyes and a pale pink jeweled sari), Oscar hopefuls (Berenice Bejo) and clients from all the global wealthy pockets, was as beaded and lacy as we have come to expect from this house. The effect, for spring, was sweet, not sultry. Pastel dresses were entirely covered in tulle flowers, metallic embroideries and crystal beading. Since Saab is so well know for his red-carpet columns, it was refreshing to think about how his shorter offerings, all indisputably for evening, could fare on a big night. Consider, for example, an elegant little frock in white lace and pearls, so ridiculously pretty it registers angelic and wicked clever all at once.

(photos:AFP,Reuters,Getty,AP)

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Paris Haute Couture: Givenchy spring/summer 2012
Posted on 25-01-2012
 

The modest setting for the Givenchy presentation played well to the extraordinary workmanship of Riccardo Tisci’s ten outfits.

First impressions of the Givenchy presentation in Paris weren’t hopeful. There’s low key and there’s low-rent. Like Donatella Versace, Riccardo Tisci skipped a full blown catwalk show, but unlike Donatella’s line-up, Tisci had to make do with two models, eight plastic mannequins and a picture of Stella Tennant in languid black jacket and elaborate nose ring (just like the old days).But in some ways the modest setting played well to the extraordinary workmanship of his ten outfits. It allowed journalists (when the bouncers weren’t looking) to feel the extraordinarily lightness of a chocolate alligator dress – the sum of days of labour and the skins of two entire alligators that had been embroidered onto tulle. The effect was both fierce and sensual.Close up, the monumental achievement of a slouchy looking (in itself a miracle considering its weight) pinafore evening dress composed of more than a million minute black beads, each one stitched on by hand, became apparent. The dress took weeks to make because the seamstresses had to keep popping it back on the mannequin to check the beaded columns were straight.

Elsewhere, Swarovski crystal studded cashmere palazzo pants and embroidered and lace ‘T-shirts’ were Tisci’s way of interpreting both ends of society. He had, his PRs reported, been watching Metropolis, Fritz Lang’s seminal 1920s film about a dystopian future in which the haves clash with the have-nots. Ahem. The resulting monchrome clothes were stunning, but perhaps film is a better medium than couture for bleak social commentaries.

Givenchy couture spring/summer 2012 presentation. Photo: Givenchy

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Paris Haute Couture: Chanel spring/summer 2012
Posted on 25-01-2012
 

Apparently the seating for the Chanel couture show, which walked in Paris this morning, was very limited because the stage was a plane. And as all of us commercial travelers know, planes are cramped places. How Karl Lagerfeld — who so memorably flew privately in the documentary Lagerfeld Confidential — knew that is a bit of a mystery. The seats were rumored in advance of the show to be “throne-like,” or extra-wide, hence greatly limiting the number of guests who could attend, which is said to have upset many editors in the U.S. who were not awarded a seat on the Chanel plane, which was erected over the course of five days in the Grand Palais. (Though given Karl Lagerfeld’s past Chanel stunts, like the real iceberg imported from northern Europe, one could be forgiven for thinking it was an actual plane that took off and flew around.)

The clothes the models wore vaguely referenced airline flight attendant uniforms.

“I didn’t want to make it too literal, ” said Lagerfeld backstage. “If you look at what air hostesses really wore back in the ’60s, it wasn’t that great”.

The Plane!

Tinted blue, like the clothes, with what one would imagine is an unnecessarily extra-wide aisle (no luggage, no fat people), and seats turned at an angle making it more difficult for all the guests to secretly stare at each other, which is 80 percent of the fun of going to a fashion show.

Karl Lagerfeld, The Kaptain takes a bow, triumphant once more.
All aboard Air Chanel for this season’s Chanel couture collection of sparkling blue designs.

(Picture: Reuters)

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